Community to Community: Weavers Interaction Programme

IMCLS GI ZOH SHG, Roing & Moi Aru Muga Pvt Ltd (Integrated Textile Park, Khruajan, Assam)

(05th - 07th December 2022)

Karabi Baruah, Ph.D: Visiting faculty RIWATCH & CEO of Moi ARU Muga Pvt.Ltd

Introduction:

Weavers Interaction Programme, between IMCLS GI ZOH SHG, Roing, Arunachal Pradesh and Moi Aru Muga Pvt Ltd (Integrated Textile Park, Khruajan , Assam), was jointly organized by Research Institute of World’s Ancient Traditions Cultures and Heritage (RIWATCH) and Moi Aru Muga, Pvt Limited, Baksa on 05 -07 December 2022.

Research Institute of World’s Ancient Traditions Cultures and Heritage (RIWATCH) is a non-profit, non-governmental research cum community-based organization, located about 10 Kms off Roing town in Arunachal Pradesh. Moi Aru Muga Pvt Ltd, with its head office located in Guwahati, provides income and livelihood opportunities for traditional artisans in Northeast India by producing and marketing outstanding and timeless alternatives to conventional fast fashion accessories, while remaining affordable and fashionable with high quality luxurious and ethically produced and curated handcrafted products. Moi Aru Muga has established facilities at two points: a farm to produce Eri and Mulberry as its sericulture basis to produce silk yarn and a weaving center with 18 looms that produces traditional silk and cotton textiles. The weaving center is located at the Integrated Textile Park, Kharuajan, Mushalpur, Baksa, BTC, Assam, with weavers mostly from the surrounding villages. They are mostly Bodo weavers, renowned for their weaving skills. IMCLS GI ZOH SHG - IMCLS is the name of the community-based organisation of Idu mishmi tribe (Idu mishmi cultural and literary society) an apex body. The self-help group is formed under the aegis of IMCLS, the apex body to deal with the production GI (Geographical indication) and zoh means motifs – to essentially promote Idu-Mishmi textile products, which has secured GI tag.

The purpose of the Weavers Interaction programme was twofold:

Cross-cultural exposure trip affording the weavers from Assam, mostly Bodos, to interact with the Idu Mishmi weavers from the neighbouring State of Arunachal Pradesh (for most of the weavers, it was the first trip outside Assam), to learn knowledge and weaving practices, and at the same time engaging in other than the usual recreation activities.

              Opportunities to witness the continuation of the age-old backstrap loom weaving of the Idu Mishmi, a sub-tribe of the Mishmi tribe, weaving detailed and intricate patterns, that continues to provide livelihood opportunities to many and has received recognition as indicated by securing the GI Tag by the Idu Mishmi Cultural and Literary Society (MCLS) on 9th October 2018.

The mutual exchange among the two groups is expected to foster their motivation and interest in traditional; weaving, identifying ways to better their products, pricing, marketing, etc.

Visited an Idu Mishmi Village and experiencing their hand-weaving traditions. Demonstration of backstrap loom weaving and Moi Aru Muga tried their hands on this age-old form of weaving. Backstrap loom weaving surprisingly simple -yet produces intricate patterns and requires great skill and patience.

Visited the IMCL self-group boutique and their GI textile products

Some reflections: The products are beautiful, other than the Idu-Mishmi traditional attire they have other items to suit modern tastes and fashion The designs include intricate geometrical patterns like lines, angles, triangles, rhomboid shapes with the continuous sequence. The Idu Mishmi is used for making Etopolo (Ladies blouse), Thuma (Ladies Wraparound), Men’s Coat, Tie, Akuchi (Shoulder bag), a Hand purse, Priest wear etc in prominent colours such as Teei (black), Shu (bright red) and Low (white). These handloom goods are highly durable, bright and attractive and can be used in all seasons and occasions.  An open question is the economic sustainability: with the high production cost and ultimately high prices how can the weavers make it commercially viable, enabling weavers and entrepreneurs to continue with traditions and at the same time help a sustain livelihood

Visited to the Handloom office in Roing and the newly refurbished emporium

Wind of change: Idu-mishmi trying the simple frame loom: producing other products -e.g., Assamese Gamosa with Idu-Mishmi motifs.